Shedding some weight of a 2012 HT Stumpjumper 29´r

[alpinestar]

Hi

I am looking to shed some weight from my MTB, but the money is a bit tight, so looking for the cheapest weight reductions.
Firstthings first, I think the stem looks a bit stupid with a plus 17 rise, thinking of getting a plus 6 or even -6 for a bit more aressive feel.

This is the Bike:

Standard Stumpjumper 2012 comp setup, only change is Latex tubes.
Spec´s from Specialized webpage.
FORK: RockShox Reba RL 29, tapered alloy steerer, LO and reb adj.
HANDLEBARS Specialized XC flat, 2014 butted alloy, 680mm wide, 8º back sweep, 31.8mm
GRIPS Specialized lock-on, S/M: Grappler, Others: Grappler XL
FRONT BRAKE Custom Avid Elixir 7 SL, hydraulic disc,160mm HS-1 rotor
REAR BRAKE Custom Avid Elixir 7 SL, hydraulic disc, 160mm HS-1 rotor
BRAKE LEVERS Custom Avid Elixir 7 SL hydraulic, tool-less reach adj., w/MatchMaker clamps
FRONT DERAILLEUR SRAM X7, 10-speed, 34.9 clamp mount, high clamp
REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM X9, 10-speed, mid cage
SHIFT LEVERS SRAM X7, 10-speed, aluminum trigger, w/MatchMaker clamps
CASSETTE SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t
CHAIN KMC X-10, 10-speed, w/ reusable Missing Link, nickel plates
CRANKSET Custom SRAM S-1250, 7050 alloy arms, 10-speed XC double,
BOTTOM BRACKET SRAM PF30, OS press-in bearing, sealed cartridge
RIMS Roval 29, 26mm w/ eyelets, 32h FRONT
HUB Specialized Hi Lo disc, laser-etched logo, OS 28 end caps, s
REAR HUB Specialized Hi Lo disc, laser-etched logo, double-sealed cartridge bearing, QR, 32h
SPOKES DT Swiss Industry 2.0, (14g) stainless FRONT
TIRE: Schwalbe Rocke Rons
SADDLE Specialized Body Geometry Phenom Comp, hollow Cr-Mo rails, 143mm width
SEATPOST 2014 butted alloy, single bolt setback, 27.2mm, 350mm 15.5/17.5"

Actually I dont know the weight of the bike at the moment.

I was initially thinking :
New lighter handlebars
Lighter stem with another rise.
Carbon seatpost
Any other area´s where I can cut weight with our spending too much?
Cheers

[devinci]

why not just flip the stem over? a -6 stem won't be really agressive. Your's probably isn't a boat anchor either, worths a try.

Ditch those grips and get foam grips
Maybe change the rotor?
Lighter saddle

If you ever want to speand a bit more money you could be looking at

-custom wheels (crest on AM classic hubs, 1430-1500g and arround 500$)
-lighter brakes (avid XX, formula R1, magura)
-lighter crankset (sram XO)

[alpinestar]

Ah I did change the grips to some Richey foam grips.. Actually not a bad idea to turn the stem, will give it a try

Yeah wheels and crank where also areas to look into when I have a bit more cash to blow on it..

[AdyM]

1x10 possible?

[alpinestar]

Hm i Like the 2x10 setup and haven't had that much problems with chainsuck when the rotors and chain aren't shod. I would rather spend it on wheels to cut rotating weight. 1x10 requires new front rotor and rear derailure as I understand?


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[devinci]

1 x 10 requires another crankset and either a type 2 rear derailleur or a front chain guide to replace the front derailleur.

Maybe you can even get your crankset to work 1x

[vfb]

1x10 just needs another chainring. Take off the trigger from the front derailleur, adjust the inner stop screw so it is locked in the position of the chainring. See if you like it if not it is just a chainring you have used on it. Did the exact same thing to my stumpjumer 2012.

Otherwise wheels and a lighter casette can save a lot of weight.
Change the seatpost to a carbon, better comfort and can easy save -200g
Crankset to a X0 or even a s-works will save a little weight, but not a lot if i remember correct my X0 crank saved 125g over the stock crank (i bought the same model of bike as you) and the s-works saved another 125 grams, so that is also -250 grams if you go for the s-works crank

[alpinestar]

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions! Just turned the stem this evening, looks way better!

Will hunt a carbon seat post and have a light selle slr from another project I will mount



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[BSUdude]

I assume you are running a tubeless setup? If not that would be an easy way to get rid of the weight of two 29" inner tubes as well as give your bike much better performance overall.

[Getter]

Those cranks are anchors. You could drop about 400gr by switching to a lighter crank and about 200gr by going tubeless.

If you go 1x...you'll have to be able to push the higher gearing it'll create. You would typically go either 32 or 30T for the front ring...and that is higher than the 22x36 you have now.

[alpinestar]

Hi

I am running latex tubes, i met a lot of people that where fed up with tubless setup, said they lost air often? Perhaps they just did not understand how to set it up correctly.. Are people just running the Stans kit? Will if fit my Roval rims with standard rocket ron´s ?

Just found this picture, Drool!

Now where did I put all that extra cash...

[tonytourist]

I have changed every part from my 2012 Evo, in fact, it is now a 2013 as my 2012 frame just cracked.
The crankset is really heavy, and so are the stock wheels.
My recommendations for upgrades would be:
Wheels
Crank
Bar/stem/seatpost/saddle
I used a standard Stan's kit for the stock Roval wheels.

[alpinestar]

Any recomendtaions for wheels? Not serriously expensive!

[ophiravina]

If I were I would go for either stan's crest or chinese wheelset...

custom chinese:
http://www.light-bicycle.com/carbon-29er-wheel-mountain-bike-clincher.html#.UxZC0D9_uot

nice chinese wheels for QR (weight is 1450g )
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/29er-MTB-Mountain-Bike-Wheelsets-Carbon-Fiber-Bicycle-Wheels-with-Novatec-Hubs/819699600.html

or stan's:
http://www.notubes.com/ZTR-Crest-29er-Stock-Wheelset-P452.aspx

[devinci]

My stans crest on am classic hubs with dt rev 32-32 weighted 1430g without rim stickers.

People fed up with tubeless probably do not get how much of an advantage riding at 19psi is, without pinch flatting