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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 2:30 am
Posts: 252
Hi everyone,
I installed 2013 Avid XX Brakes on my bike, but the hoses are too long! Can I cut the hoses without needing to rebleed the brakes? I might just twist/loop the hoses and tie wrap it to another hose. It will look ugly though.

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Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:13 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 5:47 am 
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Location: Canada
You should bleed them after cutting and most likely wil have to.. You might be able to get away with out bleeding.. You will never know until you try.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 6:56 am 
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Location: NoVA/DC
You can definitely shorten brake lines without bleeding.
Once you know how long the hose needs to be, mark your cut point. It will be close to the lever, not the caliper. Push pistons all the way back. turn brake lever so hose exit is the highest point. Cut. Unscrew the compression nut from the lever and pull the excess hose out, keeping one finger over the cut hose end. Here, I like to drip just a little fluid from the extra hose into the lever, so when it is put back together, there is w bit of overflow. Make sure the strain relief boot and compression nut are still on the good part of the hose. Slip on the new compression fitting and screw in a new hose end barb. Hold a rag around the hose attachment point and screw it all together, I want to say 85inlb but you can look that part up. Reposition the lever, squeeze it a few times to move the pads in, and you're done. If the lever is mushy, well, you messed up somewhere and will need to bleed.
It's always worth a shot, I only do something stupid like bump the bars maybe once every twenty brakes. Big time saver.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 2:26 pm 
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Location: Southern Indiana USA
You will need new squish bushing and barb. There is no way to reuse the old one. After much practice, I can generally cut them without bleeding, but you can't count on it. One little mistake and you have air. Also, It is probably a good idea to get the bleed kit and properly bleed them anyway.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 12:56 pm 
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Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Shimano have a section in their techdocs for hose shortening without bleeding, you move the pistons out first (to give you extra fluid in the caliper) then after shortening the hose you push the pistons back, thus pushing fluid up the hose to expel any air.....

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Location: The High Pennines
Unless you really know what you're doing I wouldn't mess with hydraulics (especially where brakes are concerned; probably less life-threatening if it's a hydraulic fork lockout). Job for the LBS?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 10:33 am 
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good tip about the callpers. going back to original question, you can get away with n ot having to bleed the brakes.

the olive cannot be re-used - it gets crushed to make a seal when the hollwo bolt is done up but I have re-use the inserts many times. I remove the olive using a dremel disc to cut part way thorugh then spit it by twisting a flat blad screwdriver in the slot - but take care not to damge the insert. a shapr blade can then be use to strip off the hose off the insert. you will need a pair of hose blocks to hold it in place as you tap the insert into the host.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 2:51 pm 
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If you are going to reuse the insert that is not the way to do it. The sharp blade is likely to leave scoring on the thread that can provide a possible path for leakage. If you want to reuse it, screw it out with a small torx tool while holding the casing with something grippy. Also, do not tap the insert into the host it is engineered to screw in with the same torx tool and tapping it in is liable to damage the lining of the casing leaving a possibility of leaks.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 4:22 pm 
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Thank for the help guys, im going to bring to the shop and have them do the work when it's time.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 2:09 pm 
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Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Shortening a hose and refitting and bleeding is very easy, no need to be scared by gloom merchants, I've always done my own and never had an issue.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 4:48 pm 
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"If you are going to reuse the insert that is not the way to do it. The sharp blade is likely to leave scoring on the thread that can provide a possible path for leakage. If you want to reuse it, screw it out with a small torx tool while holding the casing with something grippy. Also, do not tap the insert into the host it is engineered to screw in with the same torx tool and tapping it in is liable to damage the lining of the casing leaving a possibility of leaks."

a lot of factory connections don't benefit from the torx-type barb, though. But those are the only ones I'd bother to reuse, as they are only a buck or two anyway, and it would suck if it leaked.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 5:19 pm 
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It's really not that difficult. Try it, and if you mess it up, just take it to the LBS.
The only 'permanent' damage you can do is spill oil over the brake pads. And you would have to be very clumsy for that to happen. And a new pair of pads won't cost you that much if it were to happen.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 8:41 pm 
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Dot 5.1 is harmful to pain, carbon, anodized parts and practically anything else you get it on and leave it.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 10:34 pm 
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Location: Copenhagen City
-As said, don't be scared of fixing Your own bike..
Easy steps :

-Wrap the pads, and the stuff below, in an old T-shirt, if some oil should run.
-Lowest pressure on system.
-Spare-parts lined up.
-Cut hose with cablecutter, hold long end up high, -and remove the cut off (Can be oily).
-And like said above , drip some "Cut-off oil" in caliper as excess, just before shortened hose with new "olive" is attached and tightened.
-Test if mushy, then bleeding must be done, -if firm, -then "Good Job"...
-Remove Old T-shirt, go wash hands.

-And My Magura oil (Blood) is not friendly, but certainly not removing the paint, or dissolving the carbon parts.
Good luck.

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Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 10:34 pm 


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