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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 11:47 am 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:39 pm
Posts: 415
Location: Tropical Wales
Hi all,

I am very close to buying a Cannondale Scalpel frame to replace my current Santa Cruz Superlight (quite a change!)

I am just wondering how to best use my existing parts on the scalpel frame in the short term. I am very aware a Lefty and Hollowgrams are ideal but I do not currently have the funds.

So:

1) What is the best way to run a 1 1/8th fork (Magura Durin) in a Scalpel frame?
Should I get a new reducer headset like that of FSA/ Cane Creek/ Hope or use the existing Cannondale bearings and a set of the press in Cannondale headset reducers? It seems the press in adapters are lighter and cheaper but do these offer perfect performance?

2) What is the best way to run a 24mm axle crank (Rotor 3D) in a BB30 Scalpel frame?
Again, a press in reducer (in to the existing Cannondale bearings) seems like the lightest and cheapest option but I can't get my head around it being creak and wobble free.
Would replacing the Cannondale bearings with the Alu BSA insert and then using a regular BSA BB be better (if a little heavier and more hassle to fit)?
Does anyone know of BB30 fit bottom brakets with a 24mm ID for Shimano cranks? I could only find one Aerozine BB like this on ebay.

I am very new to Cannondale frames so apologise for the perhaps daft question!

Many thanks, DanW


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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:45 am
Posts: 79
Location: Bristol, UK
I'm running a 1 1/8th steerer in my tapered frame,
http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/m ... ducer.html
Bash it on shove it in job done :) has been fine so far and stiff enough for me to not notice.


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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 12:26 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 11:10 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:38 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Hampshire, UK
As DrGalactus suggests use a reducer to run the 1 1/8th fork, however I would suggest this one - http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/cane-cre ... 57040.html - the blue ring you see is a seal and helps keep rubbish out.

As for running 24mm cranks in a BB30 frame... personally I wouldn't put an alu insert into the frame as they are difficult to get out if you change your mind and want to run BB30 cranks. You can use these adapters to run 24mm cranks, you press normal BB30 bearings into your frame/shell and then these just push into the bearing effectively reducing the ID of the bearing from 30 to 24mm - http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Wheels ... tAodzywAnQ - I have used them and they do work quite well.


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:39 pm
Posts: 415
Location: Tropical Wales
Do both the headset and BB adapters both sit directly on the bearings or do I need some sort of Cannondale bearing cover? How do these adapters work with the fork- do they replace the crown race usually attached to the fork?


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:38 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Hampshire, UK
Yes, both adapters come into direct contact with the bearings... the cane creek adapter replaces the crown race on your fork, it makes it possible for your fork to accept the 1.5 bearing in the headset, if your fork has a race on it now you will have to remove it. The BB adapters just push into the BB30 bearing directly... as if you were putting a BB30 crank spindle through them (BB30 bearings).

Couldn't say on bearing covers for cannondale headsets.... but do put something between the BB30 bearing and BB adapter, ideally a "cannondale BB30 bearing shield" (google it), I did find that without the shield water/dirt got in easier and bearings suffered, also found that with the shield in it sits the BB adapters just slightly proud of the shell which stops them from rubbing against and marking/scratching the BB shell itself.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:39 pm
Posts: 415
Location: Tropical Wales
Thanks for the extra info Miceden.

I was worried that the bearing are quite exposed with just the adapters sitting on top but then conversely worried that putting the bearing shields in would make the crank spacing too wide- it is good to know that the solution with the bearing shields works well. Thanks! :D


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:38 pm
Posts: 250
Location: Hampshire, UK
No problem at all... you don't need to worry about the crank spacing being too wide with the shields or adapters, the bb30 bearings are recessed in the frame slightly so the shields sit flush with the shell, the adapters themselves are not all that wide/thick... you will probably still need spacers to make up the slack between crank arms and adapters, especially if you have a 68mm shell.


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Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 7:53 pm 


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