I ride my new bicycle only few times but I've noticed that the Top swing derailleur, the XTR, wasn't precise as my old normal derailleur.
I switched for a normal XTR front derailleur and the shifting was much more better than before. I replaced it again with new Ts derailleur but the story come back.
The top swing is lighter, but why don't it work properly?
My Shop said that the top swing is more expensive and less good than the down swing (normal ) derailleur, it's it true??

Your shop is right, the down swing is much better. I think, the spring is stronger ( it is at the XT down swing. )?

Esben

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GAZ GAZ

???

TP and DP depends on how your shifter cables are routed on your frame. I know most of them come with either top tube or down tube unless you have both...

Or can you use both no matter how its routed on your frame ?

Top means that the cable is routed along the top tube... Down means that it is guided along the downtube... Swing means that the cage is above the clamp, pull means that the cage is below the clamp...

At the shop I work at, all the mechanics prefer pull over swing...

But your choice isn't only limited by the cablerouting (although some front derailleurs can handle both like the xt 2004), it can also be limited by frame geometry... Like on the Spec Epic, there is this weird weld at the back of the seattube that makes the use of a pull derailleur impossible...

I have bikes with both TS and BS and have trouble locating a FD for the BS bike without buying XT or XTR.
I prefer the TS myself but the BS FD I use is Acera so I expect the feel difference is there.
My road bike has RSX100 BS FD, but it feels fine.

I think the quality is more in the shifter.

Brian

You can also use a down pull derailleur with top tube cable rounting and a wheel above the bracket, to turn the cable. This works better in the dirt than down tube cable routing

You'ld have to drill a hole in the seattube which would void warrenty on the frame... Although some frames (cx mostly) don't need drilling since they come like that from the factory...

Thank you first for your interest about my problem...
The frame is the Specialized S works Hard tail 04.
I can use only down pull derailleurs.
My bike comes in stock with original Top Swing derailleur but I found out that the Down wing seems better than the top swing version.
The Top swing is lighter but have a sort of delay in shifting and a less precise movement. I try a new derailleur, it was new in box, but the problem remains.
My conclusion is that if you want lightness go for Top swing version(132 g)
if you need rapid and precise shifting go wit Down swing version(151 g)

referred to Fd m961 annd fd m960 30,9 mmm clamp

Nicola from Italy

I have a Specialised Hardrock that uses BS and questions the logic of putting the cable amongest the dirt of the BB and the friction of the sharp bend as the cable runs up to the FD.

It could be that you are having trouble with cable friction ifa new FD doesn't solve the problem.

Brian

I am confused about the bike set up . The bike comes in stock c a top "swing" but your frame can only use down "pull" der.
How about the new derailleur that you used was it a bottom pull as well or a top swing

Nicola,


Thought I would add something to the debate as I aslo own a Spec M5 Hardtail '04.

My FD has been giving me trouble for ages. (forgive my ignorance as I'm new to riding and maintaining my own bike!!!)

I'm running XT shifter and FD. Also Avid flak jacket cables
My cables streatched to the point where the barrell adjuster maxed out.
The shifting of my FD just got worst and worse.

Could it be your set-up rather than the type of FD?

I set my FD up to suit my riding style.
e.g. in the granny ring you should never be in the small ring at the back. You are more likely to be in the larger rings at the back.

Also with the large frant ring you are more likely to be in the smaller rings at the back.

Also rememer that someone did some "scientific" tests on chain alignment. Using a bad chain alignment can cost you an extra 10% in effort.



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Tippster