Rims: DT swiss XR 4.1 ceramic 28 hole total 860 gram
niples 56 DT prolock alu 18 gram
spokes: DT Aerolite 56 spokes total 244 gram
hub front Tune mig 75 => 83 gram
Hub rear Tune mag 200 => 209 gram

Front wheel=> 644 gram
Rear wheel=> 770 gram

I chose ceramic for wheel durability and better braking performance.
I also chose the "heavier" Tune hubs, because of the price. The front hub is according to their website 4 grams heavier. The rear hub is 25 grams heavier. The only difference between the two rear hubs that i can see is the titan freehub body. And the price for the lighter ones is fairly higher.

Or does somebody knows some lite rims in the combo: 24 hole front and 28 hole rear in ceramic?

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Sounds nice, If you have time/ oppertunity too weigh abou 30 Bontrager Valients you should be able to get lighter rims, but their weights can vary a bit. The Tune Mag 180 also has a composite axle.

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I wouldn't go for 28 spokes in the rear. How much do you weigh? What's your riding style? If you're a light rider with a lot of finesse than it should be no big problem. But I would go for a little more durability, so 32 spokes in the rear. Also it's quite a lot stiffer. I remember a test in the German Bike-magazin where the stifness of the rear Tune Super-MTB (28H) wheel wasn't one of the stiffer wheels whereas the 'normal' tune rear wheel 32H) was very good.

28 spokes up front is no problem at all. Did you think about a radial spoke pattern? looks very nice and with the tune mig 75R hub this should be no problem at all (I have a setup like that, very stiff)

Doesn't the mag 180 have ceramic bearings? I don't know really (heard this somewhere), so correct me if I'm wrong.

The MAG 1x0 on the Super MTB wheelsets is always softer compared to the MAG 200, because the MAG 1x0 features a Carbon axle (MAG 200 has an Al axle).


It has ceramic hybrid bearings -> race and cone are made out of steel, the balls are Ceramic

As for the 28 spoke rear wheel. Why not I've got a set of 3 year old crossrides they also have 28 spokes at the back and 24 up front. After those three years in competition theire still going strong, I never had any problems with them.

For the front wheel i was thinking about a 28 or 24 cross over pattern. Why should i choose radial laced? Only for the cool factor, or does it have other advantiges?
Let me know how you like your wheels laced. Or what you think is the best way to do it.

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I don't have such good experiences with 28 spoke rear wheels. They don't seem to hold up against the abuse I throw at them..... (Marathons in the Alps for example)

For the patterns, for the front wheel I chose a radially laced one, because it is stiffer. The only drawback is that the hub is stressed more, but that's no problem with the especially designed front hub from tune. The advantages: stiffer, cooler looks and a (very minor) weight advantage (shorter spokes)

For the rear I have a non drive side cross 2 pattern and for the drive side a cross 3 pattern. Best of both worlds. Because of the lesser stress on the non drive side you can even go with a radially laced non drive side (stiffer sideways) but I chose the cross 2 pattern. Recommended by tune also.

I ordered my wheel directly from tune, very good wheelbuilding experience over there!

I have a question however: After a year of (ab)use I want to re-tighten the spokes a bit. But the cx-rays I have in my wheel will twist..... Is there a simple trick to tighten the spokes without twisting them???

AFAIK there's no simple trick that really works without a special tool - you're either scratching your spokes or the spokes still torque.

Sapim offers a plastic tool to hold the spokes:

I run a set of bontrager valiant rims with chris king hubs wheelsmith spokes. 36 on rear and 28 up front. 825gm rear 630 front. Bullet proof wheels (the front has been run over by a car! and trued)

I am a fan of a higher spoke count and cut the gauge. It gives a more lively MTB wheel without a weight penalty.

Thx Florian. I can make such a device myself out of wood.....

I was thinking about using some pliers, but didn't want to scratch my nice spokes Therefore my question.

nothing necessary to say...
i'm riding almost the same wheelset now for 3 years with absolute no problems. the only difference are the number of spokes and the rim type. my ws has 32spokes, triple laced in front and rear and mavic x517 rims without ceramic surface.

the reason for this combination was the lowest possible weight compared with maximum durability on all surfaces, conditions and riding styles. i'm 5'9 high and weigh 150 pds. my riding style is fast and sometimes aggressive (...says my buddies!).

i choose rims without ceramic, because they are a little bit lighter and the braking performance after ca. 1000 miles with ceramic, is not so much higher to justify the higher price. the braking performance wit blue ritchey's on natural aluminum is under dry and wet conditions state of the art.

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DT revo is abit heavier in few grams than aerolite but save money alot

Anyone ride wheelset with DT revolution spokes?Hows the performance so far?

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Crashman like crashing, feel the rythem and ride.

I am using DT Revolution 1.8/1.5/1.8mm & 28H Mavic 517 for about one year, haven't found any problem.

For me, I am using DT Aerolite spoke laced with DT 240s hub & with XR 4.1 rim?
Is it heavier than lacing with Mavic X517?
Or was it a bad choice?

Cookie

I'm using Mavic X618 ceramic rims (they are stronger than X517 ) on 32h with Marvin titanium spokes. Rear hub is Tune M200 and front is American Clasics (69g)!
Still riding them with no necessary to adjust anything except spoke tightness!!

What is this XR 4.1 rim? How much does it weigts, where can I find some info?

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Light weight everything!

Its a DT rim. Made by DT swiss.

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