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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 4:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:16 pm
Posts: 56
I'm going to buy a chinese 29er and the frame comes in bsa 68mm english thread or bb30. I can save money with going bsa 68mm since a slx crank is light and cheap, plus I can also save on getting a bb mounted mrp 1x guide instead of the seat tube mounted version thats double the cost. bb30 is stiffer though. so not sure what I should do. I'm planning to run 1x9


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 5:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1421
Hollowtech II and GXP are really pretty good value for money options though and as you've mentioned, adding things like chain guide compatibility into the mix might make them a better choice for your needs.

In terms of future compatibility, there's nothing really wrong with using an English BB on a MTB at the moment because you can still fit most good 30mm cranks without too much hassle. Hollowgrams require a spindle with the bearing surfaces in a different place which is quite pricey but it's doable. The Sworks can also be made to fit using external cups on a 68mm frame - an excellent option if you can buy them online in the USA.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 1:50 pm
Posts: 3
Withought second thought choose the bb30 version. Since you r determined to run only one disc in front the thicker axle of bb30 will take the stiffness and power transfer to a whole new level.
Which groupset are you going to built it with?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2012 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:16 pm
Posts: 56
Tarmacbikerider wrote:
Withought second thought choose the bb30 version. Since you r determined to run only one disc in front the thicker axle of bb30 will take the stiffness and power transfer to a whole new level.
Which groupset are you going to built it with?


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i weigh 125 pounds, is the bb30 stiffness going to make any difference for me? if i went bb30, I was going to get the truvativ aka 3.3 crankset and sram x9 shifters/derailleur.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 1:58 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:48 am
Posts: 1421
I highly doubt you'll notice any difference between the SLX and the 3.3 crank. On a frame like the one you're looking at it's also unlikely the lay-up really changes in any way between the 2 different variants enough to make a noticeable difference in ride quality.

Yeah - if it were me picking the better budget option, I'd just pick the SLX, save money and have a cheaper/easier time with the chosen chain retention device.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:16 pm
Posts: 56
jooo wrote:
I highly doubt you'll notice any difference between the SLX and the 3.3 crank. On a frame like the one you're looking at it's also unlikely the lay-up really changes in any way between the 2 different variants enough to make a noticeable difference in ride quality.

Yeah - if it were me picking the better budget option, I'd just pick the SLX, save money and have a cheaper/easier time with the chosen chain retention device.

I ended up buying the 68mm bsa version last night. I noticed from pics of both frames the bb area on the 68mm version has more carbon around it than the bb30 version, so maybe it'll be just as stiff. may not mean much but just something I noticed. cause they could have reduced the amount around it and had the tubes come down closer to the bb, which would have probably been less stiff.

no turning back now, lol.


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